How To Refinish The Tub

A bathtub is one of the most important fixtures in your bathroom. It’s where you relax and unwind at the end of a long day, so it’s natural that you want to keep your tub looking its best. Unfortunately, a bathtub can become chipped and scratched or even corroded by hard water stains over time. This can make it look old and unattractive.

Refinishing your tub is an easy way to restore it to its original condition without having to spend thousands on replacing it with a new one. The process can be done relatively quickly depending on how large your tub is and won’t cost too much either. Most importantly, when you’re finished refinishing, your tub will look new again. 

There are several ways to refinish an old or damaged tub, including painting the surface with acrylic paint or applying the vinyl film directly over the existing surface. Here we go!

Tools and Materials

Painter’s tapePutty knifeRoller traySpongeTack clothDrop clothBreathing protectionAbrasive padRubber glovesBleachChemical caulk removerTub and tile caulkPaint rollersPaintbrushesEpoxy puttyPaper towelsAbrasive cleanersBathtub refinishing kitSafety goggles

Remove Old Caulk and Tub’s Hardware

Use a putty knife to remove old caulk and tub hardware. Remove anything that may block your work. Cover the faucets with paper towels and mask them off using painter’s tape. Scrape off soap scum with a razor blade and make sure you clean any dirt from your bathtub openings.

Clean Your Tub Thoroughly with Diluted Bleach and Water

Pour a pail of diluted bleach and warm water into your bathtub and let it sit for 10 minutes. Then, scrub the inner and outer surfaces with a sponge or an old rag to remove dirt and stains. Rinse the tub thoroughly afterward using clean water. Allow it to dry completely before you continue with your work.


Use a coarse 36-grit paper to sand the bathtub—sand in the direction of the grain to avoid gouging or scratching your bathtub surface. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust particles as you sand. After that, fill any marks in the dried fiberglass with putty and sand it. 

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Mask off the areas around your bathtub with paper or plastic before you proceed to the next step. You can rough up sanding by brushing the tub’s surface with a stainless steel brush. Make sure you neutralize the acid before applying the paint.

Wipe and Prime

Wipe the surface with a tack cloth and prime it with an acrylic urethane enamel primer. Give it enough time to dry before you apply your top coat. Follow the instructions on the can as to how much drying time is needed after priming. After wiping with a tack cloth, clean it with a rag to enable your acrylic urethane enamel to adhere to the surface of the porcelain.

Depending on room temperature and humidity conditions, you can apply several coats per day. Make sure you apply a bonding agent over the tub’s surface to ensure your new finish won’t peel off the old porcelain.

Mask off the Tub and any Remaining Fixtures

You’ll want to mask off the remaining fixtures, including the drain stopper and any faucets. Mask off floors and walls using drop cloths and painter’s tape. Remember that epoxy paint will be hard to remove, so make sure to guard your tub against drops and spills. Protect the tile at tub level and any fixture or faucet hardware with painter’s tape or paper.

Ventilate Your Working Space

The whole project of etching, sanding, and coating will create dust and fumes. In addition to the epoxy paint fumes, sanding can create fiberglass dust that can irritate your lungs and sinuses. Always work in a well-ventilated space, preferably outside or near an open window. Also, wear breathing protection or any respiratory equipment as recommended by the manufacturer.

Then, prep your paint included in the refinishing kit according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Many DIY refinishing kits use a two-part epoxy paint that needs to be mixed before use, so read the label carefully. 

Mixing faces is very important, so don’t play fast and loose with the directions. Then, transfer half of that mixture to a second container to save the second coat and cover it to keep it from drying out.

Etch the Tub Surfaces

If the refinishing kit includes etching powder, apply it to your tub’s surface with water and scrub the surface with an abrasive pad. The etching will help the refinishing sealer adhere to the surface, which will prolong the life of your newly refinished tub. Then, rinse the tub thoroughly with clear water.

Etch the Tub Surfaces
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Sand and Wipe Down the Bathtub

Skip this step if you’re refinishing an acrylic or fiberglass tub with no substantial grout lines. But you can learn how to clean fiberglass showers here and keep the material in good shape. An older bathtub with built-up gunk is likely to have crevices and ridges that need to be sanded down to provide a smooth surface for the sealer. Use a power sander if it’s available. Ensure you roughen up the corners and edges of your tub.

Sanding is very important because it ensures the epoxy coating adheres to the surface area properly without showing any crack or peel. After that, wipe the tub with paper towels to ensure it’s completely dry. Then, remove any excess dust or paper residue using a tack cloth.

Mix the Epoxy Coating

The key to success is in how you mix your epoxy coating. Make sure it’s well blended before applying it to your tub. You’ll have 30 minutes to work with the product, so following the manufacturer’s instructions is important. 

Paint the Tub

If you know how to paint bathrooms and other surfaces like tile and drywall, then you’ll have no problem with this step. The epoxy forms an ultra-thick, high gloss finish that’s completely waterproof. Finish the edges as required with the sponge brush, then apply a second coat of coatings as directed by the manufacturer. Before applying the second coating, you may recoat immediately or wait for one to two hours of drying time.

Paint the Tub
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Let the Coating Dry Completely

This could take 3 to 6 hours depending on climate conditions – warmer climates mean shorter drying times. You can speed up the process by using an exhaust fan. Let the tub dry and cure as indicated on the label. Make sure your working site is well ventilated to prevent inhalation of vapors.

pply the Second Coat

Sponge on another coat as required by the manufacturer’s instructions. You can do this after 3 to 6 hours, depending on climate conditions. If you wait too long, it could affect adhesion, so consider the drying time before applying your second coating. Let this dry completely and apply a third coating if required by the label.

Caulk and Reinstall the Hardware

Seal your tub’s joints with fresh silicone caulk and let it cure overnight. Then, reinstall your faucet hardware. Your refinished tub is now ready to use, so run yourself a nice, warm bath.

After bathtub refinishing, it’s best to avoid abrasive cleaners to protect your surface. Instead, go for non-abrasive and bleach-free cleaners such as cast iron and porcelain cleaners. 

Call Professional Bathtub Refinishing Company

If you want to avoid the trouble of doing this job yourself, consider professional refinishing since their years of experience in bathtub reglazing can help get your old tub looking new. Professional tub refinishers market their process as reglazing. Their standard will look similar to DIY refinishing kits, but they’ll spend more time and money repairing chips and cracks.

FAQs on How to Refinish the Tub

How long does bathtub reglazing take?

Professional refinishers will complete the job within a day and can seal your tub before you head to bed.

When is the best time to reglaze your bathtub?

You can reglaze your bathtub anytime, but if you’re looking for the least messy option, do it on or before the winter months because it’s usually cold outside, and tile grout dries quickly.

Final Thought on How to Refinish the Tub

As you can see, refinishing the tub is a great option for anyone looking to update their bathroom’s refurbishing. Just ensure that you are aware of the steps involved, so you have enough time to prepare for it.

The post How To Refinish The Tub appeared first on Kitchen Infinity.

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How To Replace Toilet Fill Valve

If your toilet is losing water or making a loud noise when you flush it, this probably means that it’s time for a new fill valve.

Replacing a fill valve can be done in under an hour and will save you money on your monthly water bill. You’ll also avoid the hassle of having to call a plumber every time something goes wrong with your toilet. It’s easy to do, and we’re here to show you how. 

A fill valve opens and closes every time you flush your toilet, exposing it to wear and tear. Therefore, you need to replace it. Also, if you have an old fill valve model with a float ball, you have to consider that new model and replace the dependable fill valve with its integrated float cup. 

Here are step-by-step instructions on how to replace your fill valve so that you can get back up and running as quickly as possible without breaking the bank.

What You’ll Need

Sponge and bucketNew fill valveTape measureAdjustable wrench

Turn Off the Water Supply

First, turn off the water supply for the toilet fill valve at the wall tank by turning the shutoff valve clockwise with a wrench. Make sure you turn off the water from outside of your toilet before doing any repair. The valve should be below your tank, and it should be located where the water pipes enter the tank from the wall.

Make sure you turn off the shutoff valve until it stops moving. After that, move around your home and turn on all the fixtures to confirm if they’re off. This will also drain off the residual water pressure from your home’s plumbing system. This will help you avoid water damage due to floods.

Drain Your Toilet Tank

Once you’ve turned off the water, drain your tank before disconnecting the toilet fill valve. Begin by flushing your toilet by holding the flushing handle down to remove as much water as possible from your tank. After that,  use a bucket to remove the rest of the water in your tank. You can use an old towel or sponge to remove the excess water. Once you’ve drained all the water, unhook the old flapper. Then, buy a new flapper of the same type.

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The flapper is simply a rubber valve that fills with water when you flush the toilet, blocking the overflow tube for your tank. After you have the new flapper in hand, place it on top of the fill valve’s overflow pipe to see if it fits over without any issues.

Check the Fill Valve for a Leak

Flush your valve, then look for a valve leak. Lift your toilet float arm to let all the water out of your tank. Check under the rim for any water that has leaked from the tank after it is empty. Use a wrench to adjust the toilet float arm so that the tank stops filling when the water level is half-inch to one inch below the top of the overflow pipe. If your valve still leaks, then you need to replace it.

Remove the Old Fill Valve

Turn off your water supply, then flush the toilet and sponge the remaining water from your tank. Disconnect the water supply line, unscrew your fill valve lock nut and remove the old fill valve. Try to remove the lock nut with your bare hand before using the adjustable wrench; if you can’t, then use your wrench to hold the nut and turn it one-quarter turn at a time.

Remove the Old Fill Valve
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Disconnect the refill tube from your overflow tube, then lift off the fill valve. You can also take this moment to clean the inside of your tank, especially if the flush valve is leaking. You can also learn how to replace the flush valve of your toilet.

Prepare Your New Valve

Make sure you buy a new flapper of the same type as the one you removed from your local store. Slide the rubber washer included in your kit onto the bottom flange on the fill valve tailpiece. The washer is very important as it provides a watertight seal. You can also adjust the height of the fill valve if necessary.

Different fill valves have different methods of adjusting the height. But it’s simple as you only need to screw the stem piece shorter or longer to accommodate the height you want. In most cases, the top of your fill valve should be slightly taller than the height of your overflow pipe but not so tall to prevent the tank lid from closing.

Installing the New Fill Valve

Remove your new fill valve from the packaging and read the directions it comes with. Don’t forget to clip your new refill tube to the overflow tube. Take the threaded nut in your kit and screw it onto the bottom flange on the fill valve tailpiece, but do not tighten it yet. Take out measuring tape and measure the distance between the top cap of the valve and the top of the overflow tube.

Remove your fill valve and adjust the height. Hold the valve body using one hand and using the other hand to tighten the nut. If using a clawfoot model, tighten at least two inches beyond the overflow tube. If your fill valve is at its maximum height, but the overflow pipe is still higher than the critical level mark, you will need to install a new overflow tube.

If the shutoff valve is higher than necessary, use a wrench to carefully loosen the nut on top of the fill valve and raise or lower it so that it meets the height requirement. Tighten all nuts and fittings with your wrench. Turn the water back on through the wall stop.

When you’ve properly adjusted the height, pull your fill valve back in position and screw in the lock nut from underneath your toilet tank to hold your new fill valve firmly. Make sure you tighten the mounting nut, so it’s hand tight. 

After that, connect the water supply line back to the new valve and hand tighten it to secure it to the valve. Do not overtighten it, or you might risk cracking your fixture’s tank. Turn on the water again and check for leaks.

Connect the Fill Tube to the Fill Valve

The fill tube that’s attached to your new toilet is fairly long. You’ll need to connect it to the fill valve at the bottom of the tank. The end that fits into the valve should be cut squarely, so you get an easy fit. If this isn’t done, you get leaks or other problems, so make sure you check this before moving on to the next step. 

Attach one end of your new valve to the fill valve nipple and the other to the enclosed angle adapter. Clip your angle adapter onto the overflow pipe, then finish your installation by attaching your flapper chain to the overflow pipe.

Reconnect the Water Lines

Open the shut-off valve and let the water fill your toilet tank. Check if your new fill valve is filling your tank faster, quieter and the water level is below half-inch below the overflow tube. Confirm if no water is running from the tank to the toilet bowl. Flush the toilet a couple of times to double-check if your new valve is performing optimally. If everything is working correctly, but the toilet tank lid back and enjoy your toilet. You can also consider learning how to stop a toilet from running as these are plumbing skills you might need more often than you think.

FAQS on How to Replace Toilet Fill Valve

How do you know a bad fill valve?

You can identify a bad fill valve if you see the bottom of the washer deteriorating and causing a leak. If you see your fill valve not filling, then you may need to replace your valve.

Why do toilet valves fail?

Fill valves provide water to the toilet bowl, and when they break, the water stops flowing. Such is why you need to replace them with new ones.

re toilet valves universal?

Most toilet fill valves are interchangeable and can fit standard tank openings in any toilet. But it’s important to consider the sizes, especially the length of the valve stem.

Final Thought on How to Replace Toilet Fill Valve

As you can see, replacing your toilet fill valve is quite simple and easy. With a few tools and materials, you can replace your valve fill within a few minutes, and you’re done. And if your toilet is still running after replacing the fill valve, consider looking at the toilet flapper or another cause of a running toilet.


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